On Sunday we arrived in Kaikoura with rainclouds above us and a moody sea all around us. We had come here hoping for the good weather we experienced in Picton to follow us down the coast to this little coastal town. Kaikoura is a unique place where a very deep sea trench lies close to land, in some places it is as little as 90m offshore. This very deep trench carries cold, nutrient rich currents from the South that meet up with warmer currents flowing down from the North. This mixture of currents creates a very healthy and productive area that is frequented not only by backpacking tourists but by the mighty giant albatross, New Zealand Fur Seals, Dusky Dolphins, Orcas and the mighty Sperm Whale!
Having booked our accommodation for three nights we decided to ride out the weather on Monday, opting for a three hour loop of the Kaikoura Peninsula, taking in a couple of Fur Seal colonies and some truly astonishing scenery, despite the weather - on a good day it must be even better, as you get to see the Seaward Kaikoura Mountains rising behind the town. The rather large Fur Seals seem unconcerned about the attention given them by tourists; the two specimens we came across went on about their business of basking on the rocks and doing nothing even when the Japanese tourists went right up close for photos! Once back in town we enquired about Dolphin swimming, but unfortunately there were no places available next day, just space on the Dolphin watching tour. With sad hearts we booked ourselves onto the Dolphin watching, but also put our names down on the waiting list for the swimming tour. What a wise decision that was! In the early evening we got a call from Dolphin Encounters asking if we would like to upgrade to Dolphin swimming as two places had opened up…
So it was that on Tuesday Justyna and I were to be found getting out of bed at 7 o'clock in the morning to make our way to the offices of Dolphin Encounters where we were given wet suit, flippers and goggles and told to make as many noises as possible once in the water "to entertain the dolphins". The boat ride out to the dolphins took some 25 minutes. Once in position (with hundreds of dolphins swimming around the boat) we were told to slide into the water and follow the beautiful creatures.
The Dusky Dolphins are one of the most acrobatic species of dolphin, taking to the air in leaps, back flips, somersaults… you name it! When you're in the water the dolphins swim around you going about their own business, but occasionally you will gain the attention of one of them, it will come in for a closer look, and start to circle you. The more you make noise and follow its lead, swimming in circles like the dolphin, the longer it will stick around "playing with you". This is a truly amazing experience, these dolphins are beautiful animals in the wild, if ever you get a chance to go dolphin swimming you should leap to the occasion!
We got to swim with the dolphins about three times. Since the pod is racing down the coast, in about 20-30 minutes the 600 or so dolphins in the pod will have all but swum past, so the swimmers climb back onto the boat that carries them to the head of the pod. The dolphins are wild creatures, not every tour has as much interaction as we did, sometimes the dolphins are not in the mood to play at all, and will swim away from the boat when people get into the water.
Today, Wednesday, we arrived in Motueka, where we will be based for our adventures in Abel Tasman National Park, said to be one of the most beautiful parks in New Zealand… stay tuned for more updates!
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